19th century cafe. still in operation on the square in the san telmo neighborhood of buenos airies. every square inch of the walls have been carved with names dating back a hundred years. the waiters are charming old men in old school aprons. the floors are fantastic b+w check stone. the walls still have original advertisements for products they havent carried in 80+ years. its filled with light and they have fantastic espresso. it sits directly across from the starbucks (a sin). but also right across from the san telmo flea market…. every sunday the square floods with dealers – the best possible way to spend the day.